Showing posts with label special occations. Show all posts
Showing posts with label special occations. Show all posts

Thursday, April 1, 2010

Crocheted edging


This is a simple crocheted edging that I use a lot. It looks similar to some my grandma used to put on things, but not exactly. Since I have never seen it listed in any magazine or crafting book, I don't know if it has a name or not, but I call them wagon wheels. My Grandma taught me to crochet when I was very young, but I didn't learn to read crochet patterns until I was in my late 30's, but I will try to explain how I do this.

I Crochet directly onto the item to be decorated, in this case it is a wash cloth. Make a slip knot and put it on your crochet hook. Start on any side and crochet by punching the crochet needle through the wash cloth and pulling the thread thru from the back to the front. Now you have two loops on the hook. Yarn over and draw thru the two loops on the hook. Go all the way around the wash cloth spacing evenly. In each corner point put three stitches in one space to make the turns. At the end, slip stitch in the first stitch made, chain one. Next row: * Skip one stitch, and double crochet in the next stitch. Chain one, double crochet in the same space as the first double crochet four times (in that stitch you should have 5 double crochets with a chain in between each one). Skip one stitch and single crochet in the next stitch. Single crochet in each of the next three stitches. Repeat from * all the way around the wash cloth with one exception being the corners. The single crochets might have to be adjusted on each side of the wagon wheel to center it directly on the corner, instead of 5 double crochet with a chain in between, put 7 double crochet with a chain in between. An adjustments with the single crochets might have to be made at the end of the row to make the wagon wheels look evenly spaced. Slip stitch in the first chain, change colors by making a slip not in the new color, chain one by pulling the new color thru the loop and dropping the first color. Cut the first color thread leaving a tail about 4 inches long. Next row: Single crochet in each stitch and each chain space. Slip stitch in the first chain. finish off.

I make these to be used as Guest Wash cloths in my front bathroom. The same edge could be used on napkins for special occasions, or around the bottom of a little girls dress.






Wednesday, March 31, 2010

PILLOW CASES WITH A PIECED EDGE

This is a simple pieced edge that can be added to pillow cases to dress them up and add to the decor of your bedroom. It is squares set on point. I picked bright colors with a sharp contrasting background. I also only put the squares on the top of the pillow case and just a yellow band on the back. Materials needed for the edge of each pillow case is 9 two inch squares (using multi colors of fabric), 5 three and a half inch squares (for the background fabric), and two strips of background fabric that are 2 7/8 inches wide and approximately 25 inches long.
I use a cutting mat, large plastic ruler, and rotary cutter to make my cuts exact. Several different companies make these, You can buy the pieces individually or as a set. The one I use is made by Fiscars, it came in the three piece set (it's cheaper if you buy the set). You could also cut them individually with scissors. Just be careful to make them as exact as possible. Cut 9 two inch squares.



Cut 5 three and a half inch squares (background fabric). Then cut across catty corner in both directions to make the setting triangles.





With right sides together, place a triangle on top of a square, lining up the corner and 2 sides as seen in the picture. Use 1/4 inch seams. Do one right after the other without cutting the thread in between, this is called flagging and it really does make the process go faster and it keeps you from loosing any pieces.





Lay out your flag on the ironing board with squares on top. Then with your iron set on cotton setting, use the nose of the iron to push the square up. Doing this ensures that the seam lays flat with no puckers or folds. Clip the thread in between, stack them and go back to the sewing machine.




With right sides together, place another triangle on top of the square on the opposite corner as seen in the picture to the left. Sew in the same manor as before.








Press, clip threads, and stack.







Orient your stack with the top triangle pointing up to the left and seams pointing down. Place one set on the machine, flip the next set over from right to left, place it on top of the first set with right sides together, lining up the sides, with the top triangle on top of the square and the top square on top of the triangle. Continue in this manor until all 9 are sewn together. Press seams. Cut 45 degree angles on both ends of the back strip of fabric, making sure that the angles you cut are complementary to the angles on the front piece you just made. Sew both sides. Your overall finished size if this band when laid flat should be 19 1/2 inches (which is the finished width of a standard pillow case.

For the case itself cut fabric 40 inches wide (add 3/4 inch if you are doing french seams) and 27 inches long, and a strip 40 inches by 5 inches (this will be the hem). Sew the bottom and side seam of the pillowcase and turn it right side out. With right sides together and the squares centered on the top of the pillowcase and the solid band on the back, use 1/4 inch seam to attach decorative band to case being careful to sew across the point of the squares, not into the squares.

Sew the ends of the 40 inch strip together making a band. With right sides together and lining up the side seam of the case with the seam of the band, sew hem band to the bottom edge of decorative band. Press seams down, turn up hem band 1/2 inch and press. Turn up hem to cover the seam between the case and the decorative band and blind stitch. There should be approximately one inch of fabric below the decorative band. The over all finished size of the pillow case should be 19 1/2" X 29".



These make excellent gifts any occation. People love them because that added personal touch makes it all that much more special and it really doesn't take that much time after you get the hang of it. I think it took about 1 1/2 to 2 hours for me to make each one and I was stoping to take pictures as I was doing it.

Friday, March 26, 2010

Making a bow

The basket in the picture was made for a previous blog entitled Egg Basket.

Now to make a bow you will need about 4 yards of 3 inch wide wire edged ribbon, a twist tie, Utility scissors, fabric scissors, and a crochet hook (about a size H)




Measure off about 2 3/4 yards of ribbon. Then fold one end down about 7 inches. I just use my hand with my fingers spread out to get this 7 inch measurement but you can cut out a piece of cardboard that size if you have small hands. Wrap the ribbon loosely around and around until you come to the end (remove cardboard if you are using it) and it should look like the picture to the right.


With utility scissors, cut a V in both sides at the center point (the ribbon has wire in the edges and this will destroy fabric scissors). These V notches should go in 1/3 of the way, leaving 1/3 of the width uncut. If you cut it too deep, the loops will pull out when you begin shaping the bow.



Slide the twist tie under the bow in the center position and pull both ends of the tie up in the notches. Twist it securely causing the center of the bow to wrinkle up (at least two twist).





Now cut another piece of ribbon that is slightly longer than the diameter of your basket (in this case, I cut mine about a yard long). With fabric scissors, cut large v notches in both ends (make sure you are cutting only the fabric portion of the ribbon, and not the wire edge). This will be the bow tails.
Starting with one side of the bow, put your fingers in the loops with one hand and grasp the outer loop with the other hand. Put your fingers in the loop and pull and twist this loop separating it from the bunch. Then switch and pull and twist a loop to the other side. Go back and forth like that until all the loops on that end of the bow are done. Repeat on the other side.


Now manipulate the loops until you achieve the desired look.
Center tail piece on the back of ribbon and secure in place with one twist of the twist tie.






With the twist tie, attach the bow to the base of the basket handle on one side of the basket. Stick your crochet hook through the top wrap of fabric on the top of the basket edge about 1/3 of the distance between handles away from the base of the handle. Catch one of the tails with the hook and pull it through the fabric wrap. Go down another third and repeat. Then go to the other side and do the same thing. When pulling these tails through the fabric, don't pull them tight. They should have a loose, soft look to them.

On the other handle side of basket pull both tails through the same fabric wrap in opposite directions.









Finesse the bow one more time and you are done.









Thursday, March 18, 2010

Bunny Candy Jar

This is a bunny candy jar that I made using an old shirt, a sock that had no mate, and a jar that once held cheese dip.











The jar in this picture is an old jelly jar.
Step one. Wash jar with hot soapy water and rinse with vinegar. Trace the lid on a piece of cardboard and cut it out (make two of these) and set aside.
Cut a circle out of the fabric that is at least a half inch larger than the lid all the way around. Glue the lid to the fabric, centered. Glue the edges of the fabric to the sides of the lid and trim off excess. Cut a piece of bias tape long enough to go around the lid. To find the width of the tape, measure the side of the lid and add 1/2 inch. Iron both edges in towards the center 1/4 inch. Glue around the side of the lid to hide the raw edges. Screw lid on the jar.
Step two. The head, hands, nose, and ears are cut from the sock. Cut a line straight across the sock about half way between the heel and toe (this is the head). Cut the leg part of the sock off, then cut the band off the top. cut straight up both sides making two equal sized rectangles (these are the ears). With the heel section that is left, cut a circle that is slightly larger than a quarter from the center of the heel (this is the nose). Cut two rectangles that are about one inch wide and two inches long from what is left (these will be for the hands.
Step three. From fabric cut two 5 inch squares (sleeves), and one large circle (hat). I used a large dinner plate and traced around it to make the large circle. Measure in from the sides of the circle about 1 inch, draw another circle in the large circle (I traced around a medium sized dessert plate to make this circle).


Step four. For each hand, fold the small rectangles in half with wrong side out and stitch from the open end in towards the folded edge, rounding both corners and back to the open end. Trim rounded corners and turn right side out. Stuff lightly with fiber fill.
For sleeves, make a shirt tail hem on the lower edge of each of the 5 inch squares. Then fold in half and stitch side seam. turn right side out and press. Run a basting stitch about 1/4 inch up from the hem . Slip hand into sleeve and pull on the basting string , adjust gathers and secure hand to sleeve with either stitches, or glue. Stuff sleeve lightly and gather across the top. Lap upper edge of sleeves over upper side edges of lid; glue in place.


Step five. For ears, fold rectangle in half lengthwise. Start stitching along the long open side. About half way down the side start aiming your stitching toward a center spot on the short side. Do not sew all the way to the edge, stop about 1/4 inch from edge. Turn and sew (using the same aiming technique) towards the folded edge about half way up. These aiming stitch lines should not be straight, but rather arched. Trim off excess fabric on both sides of the ear tips and turn.
Stuff head. Glue the two circles of cardboard together for extra stability. Slip cardboard circles into the neck. Glue the edges of the neck to the bottom of the cardboard. Make the nose by running a gathering stitch around the edge of the small circle and pulling the string while tucking the edges in (use extra poly fill if necessary to make the nose full). Attach nose to face. Attach Ears to top of head. Use buttons (I used pony beads because I didn't have any buttons) for eyes and attach to face. Use markers or embroidery to make mouth. Glue head to the center of the jar lid over the sleeves.



Step Six. Using a satin stitch, stitch around the outer edge of the large circle. Run a gathering stitch on the line drawn about 1 inch in from the edge. Cut slices in hat large enough for the ears to go through on each slide about 1/4 inch in from the gathering line.
Pull ears through and tuck raw edges down so they don't show. Pull gathering string and adjust gathers. Then secure it so gathers won't come out. Glue rick rack or any other trim you like to the jar. Make a tiny little sign and attach to both hands. Fill jar with candy.
I had a lot of fun making these. They can be made for any occasion. Dogs, cats, pigs, bears, or cows could be made with these same instructions just by changing the ears. You could even leave the ears off, add grey yarn for hair and change the mouth and make a Granny full of treats for the grand children.