Log Cabin Table Runner

This is a table runner that I made using upholstery sample scraps that were left over from making valences for the windows at my daughters house (She is doing the lodge look at her house).
I made 7 log cabin blocks and cut 3 of them in half diagonally. I used the one's that I cut in half to set the others on point. When it came time for finishing, I had to do the quilting on the machine since upholstery fabric is just too thick to quilt through by hand. It has one layer of batting, and is backed with a pant weight twill fabric. I think it turned out nice. I will use it for dinners when all the family gets together and there is a lot of food on the table. The thickness of the table runner will protect my table from any damage.

Re-Cycled Jeans Pillow

Another way to use old jeans is to make decorative throw pillows. You know what they say "jeans go with everything". Well I believe the same is true for these throw pillows made from recycled jeans. I cut 16 squares and layered them 4 deep with all right sides facing up, sew across in 1/2 inch increments on the diagonal, cut thru three layers in between seams and then run them thru the washer and dryer to make them poof up. Then sew the blocks together so that the sewn lines form a concentric design. I put a denim back on mine to make a pillow, but the same idea could be used to make a tote or beach bag.

Carosel Horse

I drew the pattern for this horse myself by looking at horses on TV. It was a lengthy process of trial and error. All four legs are different, I was trying to make it look like the horse was in a high gallop, and still be level enough to hold a rider if I ever get one made to put on him.
The body is made of suede upholstery fabric. The mane and the tail are loose wool that I carded myself. The eyes, nostrils, and the tufts of hair above each hoof are wool that I felted on using a felting needle. The bridle and saddle are made of craft felt and decorated with studs and wool that I felted to shape the seat on the saddle. The reigns is macrame.
The saddle blanket is a piece of velveteen with fringe sewn on.

I covered the dowel rod with suede and wrapped ribbon around it to give it a swirl effect. The base is covered with strips of suede woven with ribbon.
These make great decorations at Christmas time, for a childs nursery, or for anytime for someone who likes carosel horses.

Work-in-Progress

My daughter got this package in a large box of craft projects that she bid on at an auction. The package is stamped Vogart Crafts. I tried to look this up on the Internet, but the only thing I found was EBay listings for vintage crafts. I have no idea how old it is, but apparently they are not made anymore.

It is a set of four napkins that are supposed to be cross-stitched on large gingham check. Well, no offence to people who like that, I think that large of cross-stitch is ugly, so I decided to applique the floral design instead.

So far, I have one done. When I finish all four I will probably put them together with sashing and make either a baby quilt, or maybe a table runner.

Cupboard Wall Hanging

I saw a picture of a cupboard wall hanging in a magazine one time that looked so nice I had to look twice at it to see that it was a picture rather than the real thing.

This is my version of it. I chose blue to make the dishes because my dishes are blue and I wanted it to look like it fit in with the rest of the things in my kitchen.

For the hutch, I chose shades of brown. I gave it dimension by mitering the corners of the shelves and side pieces, and set some of the dishes forward on the shelf and some of them I set back. All the applique was done with the needle turn method. The quilting is done by hand. I quilted around the dishes, then for the hutch I quilted 1/2" apart in the direction I thought the grain of the wood would go (if it were wood). The back of the hutch I did in 1" square set on point to distinguish it from the sides and bottom of the shelves.

The backing I cut about 1" larger than the front all the way around, and used it to make the binding. Finally, I put a sleeve across the top of the back to run a dowel rod thru for hanging.

Rooster Wall Hanging

The pattern for this rooster is from FIBER MOSAICS. the patterns name is COOK-A-DOODLE. I got mine from Jo-Anne Fabrics, but they can be purchased at www.fibermosaics.com for $8.00. The pattern suggest that you use fusible web to do the applique, but I always hand quilt, and it is very difficult to quilt thru fusible web so I use butcher paper.

First, I drew all the pattern pieces on the butcher paper and cut them out. Then I decided which colors to use for each piece from my scrap bag. Iron the pattern pieces with the waxy side down to the wrong side of the fabric scraps, leaving at least 1/4 inch seam allowance around each piece (I also numbered the feathers on the butcher paper so I would know what order to place them on the bird). Cut them out always remembering the seam allowance, also, there are a lot of curvy edges, don't try to go in and out, just cut in a line below the bottom of the points and clip in to the curve. That last sentence will make more since to you when you actually start doing it.

The background square is approximately 17". Use the diagram from the pattern to place the pieces on the background square one at a time with butcher paper down and right side facing up. Put a few pins in to hold it in position and use the needle turn method to applique. Turn it over and cut the background fabric away on the inside of the piece you just attached. Pull the butcher paper off, and go to the next piece. After you get the hang of it, it doesn't take very long. I did the whole Rooster in one evening watching TV. Sew on borders mitering the corners. Layer with backing facing down, batting, and Rooster facing up.

I use safety pins to hold all the pieces together. The rule of thumb is to place the safety pins close enough together that you cant put your hand on it without touching at least two pins. To me this means about 3 inches apart. Then start quilting. I hand quilt, but you could use a sewing machine if you prefer. I quilted around every piece and both sides of the inside border. I didn't do any quilting on the background because this is just a wall hanging. If it were to be a quilt, quilting should be about 2 inches apart. More latter on making the binding and hanger.

Crochet Edging on a Pillowcase

I made this edging with Aunt Lidia's bedspread weight (size 10) crochet thread and a size 8 steel crochet hook. The ribbon is 1/8" Offray spool O ribbon,and matching DMC floss. This edging is approximately 2 inches wide, so keep that in mind when you are making your pillow case (finished size for a standard pillow case is 19 1/2 X 29 inches)
Abbreviations:
ch (chain)
st (stitch)
dc (double crochet)
lp (loop)
sk (skip)
sp (space)
tr (treble)
tr cl (treble cluster)

Sc around the edge of a pillow case evenly spaced. Join, ch 3
Row 1. dc in next sc, ch 1, sk next sc, *dc in each of the next 2 sc, ch 1, sk next sc. Repeat from * all the way around pillow case. Join, chain 3.
Row 2. Dc in each dc and in each ch 1 sp all the way around. Join, ch 3.
Row 3. Repeat row 1.
Row 4. Repeat row 2.
Row 5. Sc in each dc all the way around. Join, ch 6.
Row 6. * sk next 2 sc,dc in each of the next 3 sc, ch 3, sk next 2 sc, dc in next sc, ch 3, Repeat from *all the way around. Join, ch 2.
row 7. *2 tr in first dc and hold last lp of each tr on hook, thread over and work off all lps on hook to form a 2 tr cluster, (ch 4, a 2 tr cl in next dc) twice, ch 2, sc in next (single) dc, ch 2, repeat from * across. Join, finish off.
Run ribbon through rows 1 and 3. Run DMC floss through row 5.
For the blue and white twisted rope look above the crochet, I used a large eyed needle and a length of the crochet thread slightly longer than the width of the pillow case. Do a simple running stitch across about 1/2 inch up from the crochet edge with the stitch length being about 1/8 inch. Then, using the floss (three strands), and embroidery needle, attach to the seam allowance on the inside. come up thru the case right next to the first running stitch. Going from right to left each time, run the needle under the running stitches all the way across. This will give it a twisted rope affect.

These make really nice Christmas, or wedding presents, plus, all little girls love frilly, lacy things like this whether they will admit it out loud or not.

Simple edging

This is another Guest washcloth.It is simple, but elegant. It adds a touch of color to compliment the guest bathroom decor, without being too frilly, or time consuming.

First, crochet onto a washcloth (as shown in the previous entry called Crocheted Edging). Slip stitch in the first stitch made, and chain 2.

Second, Half double crochet in each stitch, with 3 half double crochets in each corner stitch. Slip stitch in the second chain of the beginning chain 2. Change colors, chain 1.

Third, Single crochet in the first three half double crochets, chain three, single crochet in the same space, * single crochet in each of the next 10 half double crochets, chain 3, single crochet in the same space. Repeat from * until you get all the way around. Adjustments in the single crochets need to be made at the corners to ensure that the chain 3 loop is directly over the corner stitch and when you come to the end to ensure that the chain 3 loops appear to be evenly spaced. Slip stitch in the first chain 1, and finish off.

Adding a crocheted edge to washcloths not only looks nice, it keeps the edge of the wash cloth from fraying out and looking ragged. Lets face it, most washcloths that you buy are just serged around the edge and that serging thread begins to come out in just a few washings. After that the washcloth finds its way to the rag bag. Crocheting around them will extend the life of the washcloth considerably.

Crocheted edging

This is a simple crocheted edging that I use a lot. It looks similar to some my grandma used to put on things, but not exactly. Since I have never seen it listed in any magazine or crafting book, I don't know if it has a name or not, but I call them wagon wheels. My Grandma taught me to crochet when I was very young, but I didn't learn to read crochet patterns until I was in my late 30's, but I will try to explain how I do this.

I Crochet directly onto the item to be decorated, in this case it is a wash cloth. Make a slip knot and put it on your crochet hook. Start on any side and crochet by punching the crochet needle through the wash cloth and pulling the thread thru from the back to the front. Now you have two loops on the hook. Yarn over and draw thru the two loops on the hook. Go all the way around the wash cloth spacing evenly. In each corner point put three stitches in one space to make the turns. At the end, slip stitch in the first stitch made, chain one. Next row: * Skip one stitch, and double crochet in the next stitch. Chain one, double crochet in the same space as the first double crochet four times (in that stitch you should have 5 double crochets with a chain in between each one). Skip one stitch and single crochet in the next stitch. Single crochet in each of the next three stitches. Repeat from * all the way around the wash cloth with one exception being the corners. The single crochets might have to be adjusted on each side of the wagon wheel to center it directly on the corner, instead of 5 double crochet with a chain in between, put 7 double crochet with a chain in between. An adjustments with the single crochets might have to be made at the end of the row to make the wagon wheels look evenly spaced. Slip stitch in the first chain, change colors by making a slip not in the new color, chain one by pulling the new color thru the loop and dropping the first color. Cut the first color thread leaving a tail about 4 inches long. Next row: Single crochet in each stitch and each chain space. Slip stitch in the first chain. finish off.

I make these to be used as Guest Wash cloths in my front bathroom. The same edge could be used on napkins for special occasions, or around the bottom of a little girls dress.

PILLOW CASES WITH A PIECED EDGE

This is a simple pieced edge that can be added to pillow cases to dress them up and add to the decor of your bedroom. It is squares set on point. I picked bright colors with a sharp contrasting background. I also only put the squares on the top of the pillow case and just a yellow band on the back. Materials needed for the edge of each pillow case is 9 two inch squares (using multi colors of fabric), 5 three and a half inch squares (for the background fabric), and two strips of background fabric that are 2 7/8 inches wide and approximately 25 inches long.

I use a cutting mat, large plastic ruler, and rotary cutter to make my cuts exact. Several different companies make these, You can buy the pieces individually or as a set. The one I use is made by Fiscars, it came in the three piece set (it's cheaper if you buy the set). You could also cut them individually with scissors. Just be careful to make them as exact as possible. Cut 9 two inch squares.

Cut 5 three and a half inch squares (background fabric). Then cut across catty corner in both directions to make the setting triangles.

With right sides together, place a triangle on top of a square, lining up the corner and 2 sides as seen in the picture. Use 1/4 inch seams. Do one right after the other without cutting the thread in between, this is called flagging and it really does make the process go faster and it keeps you from loosing any pieces.

Lay out your flag on the ironing board with squares on top. Then with your iron set on cotton setting, use the nose of the iron to push the square up. Doing this ensures that the seam lays flat with no puckers or folds. Clip the thread in between, stack them and go back to the sewing machine.

With right sides together, place another triangle on top of the square on the opposite corner as seen in the picture to the left. Sew in the same manor as before.

Press, clip threads, and stack.

Orient your stack with the top triangle pointing up to the left and seams pointing down. Place one set on the machine, flip the next set over from right to left, place it on top of the first set with right sides together, lining up the sides, with the top triangle on top of the square and the top square on top of the triangle. Continue in this manor until all 9 are sewn together. Press seams. Cut 45 degree angles on both ends of the back strip of fabric, making sure that the angles you cut are complementary to the angles on the front piece you just made. Sew both sides. Your overall finished size if this band when laid flat should be 19 1/2 inches (which is the finished width of a standard pillow case.

For the case itself cut fabric 40 inches wide (add 3/4 inch if you are doing french seams) and 27 inches long, and a strip 40 inches by 5 inches (this will be the hem). Sew the bottom and side seam of the pillowcase and turn it right side out. With right sides together and the squares centered on the top of the pillowcase and the solid band on the back, use 1/4 inch seam to attach decorative band to case being careful to sew across the point of the squares, not into the squares.

Sew the ends of the 40 inch strip together making a band. With right sides together and lining up the side seam of the case with the seam of the band, sew hem band to the bottom edge of decorative band. Press seams down, turn up hem band 1/2 inch and press. Turn up hem to cover the seam between the case and the decorative band and blind stitch. There should be approximately one inch of fabric below the decorative band. The over all finished size of the pillow case should be 19 1/2" X 29".

These make excellent gifts any occation. People love them because that added personal touch makes it all that much more special and it really doesn't take that much time after you get the hang of it. I think it took about 1 1/2 to 2 hours for me to make each one and I was stoping to take pictures as I was doing it.

Pillow case with embroidery insert

This is a pillow case with an embroidered insert. The first thing to do to make this pillow case is to figure out how much material it will need and how to cut it. The finished size of a standard pillow case is 19 1/2" X 29". Since we are going to have enclosed seams, we will need to add 3/4" to the length and 3/4" to both sides which changes our measurement to 21" X 30 1/4". Now, we have to figure out how much extra we need for the hem. I like to make my hem wide enough to completely enclose the back side of the insert. The insert window is approximately 4 inches in diameter, with 1 inch above and 1 1/2 inch below, and a half inch turn down to hide raw edges. This brings our length measurement to 37 1/4 inches. Multiply the width measurement by two (there of course are two sides) bringing it to 42 inches. So from a piece of Cotton fabric cut a piece that is 42" wide and 37 1/4" long.

Fold fabric in half lengthwise with the right sides facing out. Use 1/4 inch seam to sew the long side, and one end. Trim fabric on sewn edges down to 1/8 inch. Now turn wrong side out. Holding seam between fingers and thumb, work back and forth in a rolling fashion to get any folds or tucking out of the seam. Sew again using a half inch seam. This will totally enclose the seam. Turn up a 1/2 inch on the bottom to the back side, iron. Set this aside for now.

If you are using an iron on design, make sure it fits in a 4" circle. If you are making one that looks like mine, this is the steps I go thru to make this simple design. I measured all my dishes and found a small bowl with a 4" diameter top. I put it on a piece of white paper and traced around it. Then I folded the circle in half (holding it up to the light helps to make sure it is exactly in half).
Then I drew a half of a heart, turned it over, put it up against the window and traced the half a heart (This is to make sure the design is symmetrical). I drew a bow at the base, and alternating from inside to outside, I drew stems on both sides of the heart.

For the rose buds, I used the daisy stitch. Come up from the bottom at the point of a stem. Stick the needle back in at the same point and out slightly less than 1/16 of an inch away from the stem. Pull thread around the point of the needle as shown in the photo to the right.

Now put the needle point back in the same spot, making sure the loop will be caught and tacked in place.

Then, make another daisy stitch directly over this one but slightly larger. Using the same beginning point, make two more daisy stitches, one on each side, that are the same size as the first one, very close to the center one.

I use a decorative stem stitch to make the stems. This stitch is worked from left to right. Bring needle up through fabric on the line to be outlined. Holding thread toward you, take s short slanting back stitch along line. Make the next and each successive stitch from right to left and bring needle out to the left at the end of the previous stitch. repeat along line, keeping stitches small and uniform. At the end of that line, push needle down through the end of the line then bring it back up slightly to the right side. Look at the picture to the left, Turn your work slightly, stick the needle through the stem stitching only at an angle from left to right. this will make the thread wrap around the stem. Because the original stem stitch overlaps slightly, angling the needle will make the needle pass through two stitches at once. continue wrapping in this manor all the way up the stem. At the base of each rose make three small stitches, one from base to left side of rose, one from base to center of rose and the third from base to right side of the rose. Then use daisy stitches to make leaves up and down both sides of stem.

French knots are used to look like baby's breath around the roses. Bring needle up through material, wrap thread around the tip of the needle twice (in this picture, I am holding the tip of the needle with my left hand because I couldn't hold the needle and take the picture at the same time) close to the work, keeping the thread taunt.

Thrust needle downward 1 or 2 threads from where it was brought up. Pull the thread with your left hand slightly, working the knot down the needle. Push needle through to the back, drawing thread through carefully to form the knot on right side. Bring needle back up in position for the next french knot.




For the top part of the heart, use the decorative stem stitch.

For the bow, use regular stem stitch for all stitching lines and one more row of stem stitch down the center if you can see fabric between them. Then starting at one end, bring the needle up through the fabric on the right side. Going from left to right , pass needle straight under stitching close together giving it a raised satin stitch effect.


On freezer paper trace the same 4 inch circle used before, making sure there is at least 1 inch of paper all the way around on the outside of the circle. Cut the circle out. With wrong sides out,

fold pillow case in half with the fold side and seam line together and press this new fold. Measure up 7 1/2 inches from the turned up bottom edge on the fold line you just pressed and mark that spot. Now measure up 2 inches from that mark and make a large dot. Unfold pillowcase and with shinny side down, center the cut out circle over the large dot lining the edge of the circle with the mark. Cut fabric from the center leaving about a half inch of fabric all the way around. Cut this fabric on the inside of the circle about every 3/8 inch as shown in picture above. Use water soluble fabric to glue these little tags down to the freezer paper.

Turn pillow case right side out. Slide a small cutting mat or some other hard surface in the pillow case just under the window. Slide needle work in on top of the cutting mat and center it in the window. Pin in place. Use a blind stitch to sew window to needle work securely. Pull paper off the back. Use decorative stitches 1/2 inch around the outside of window. Trim excess fabric the back. Measure up hem (top edge of hem should come about 1 inch above window) and Blind stitch.